Island Hopping in B.C.'s Gulf Islands

	A Heron Takes Flight in the Georgia Strait 1

On board one of those massive vessels, standing out on the ship's deck, watching those tranquil islands drift on by, one can't help but feel a sense of adventure well up inside. Maybe it's the fresh ocean air and the feeling of the Pacific waves below. Maybe it's how appealing the Gulf Islands become on a warm sunny day. Maybe it's the unknown beckoning to some deep-seeded instinct to explore. Whatever the cause may be, there is a simple solution, just go island hopping.

An activity enjoyed most in the warm months from May to September, island hopping is as simple as it sounds; board one boat after the next as they travel from island to island. The benefits to this seemingly humble endeavor are numerous. For starters, it affords an opportunity to fully experience the natural beauty, diverse culture and peaceful atmosphere found on each of these unique islands. Also, travel is inexpensive and relatively easy. But perhaps most importantly, island hopping is done at one's own pace. It awards those exploring the islands with the freedom to spend as much time as they like in any one place.

THE ISLANDS

The B.C. Flag Flies on the Ferries 2

Destination: Salt Spring
Salt Spring Island is the most populated and by far the largest of the Southern Gulf Islands. Home to musicians, farmers, entrepreneurs and a large arts community, the relaxed atmosphere and the natural lifestyle that these islanders enjoy attracts more visitors each year than any of the other six.

Billing itself as the Organic Gardening Capital of Canada, Salt Spring has made farming its primary resource. Much of the island is covered with picturesque pastures and pristine farmland and many shops and vendors fleck the streets, dispensing the bounty of these businesses. The remaining pockets are filled by artist's galleries, studios and craft shops as they showcase the community's creative spirit.

The rugged southern end of the island is dominated by Mount Tuam and Mount Bruce and is home to Ruckle Provincial Park, the biggest provincial campground in the Gulf Islands.

Compared to many of the Gulf Islands, Salt Spring features an impressive selection of shops, spas, restaurants and tourist accommodations.

	Camping on Salt Spring Island 3

Destination: Galiano
Dubbed the Gem of the Gulf Islands, Galiano is the second largest island in the chain. Though it is the first stop for the Tsawwassen ferry and a popular tourist destination, Galiano has managed to retain its undeveloped, secluded character while enjoying a reputation as the most welcoming to visitors.

On this long, narrow island there are plenty of options for the outdoor enthusiast. It has the most parkland of all the Southern Gulf Islands, is home to over 130 species of birds and harbours a number of rare and protected plants. As a result, Galiano is frequented by naturalists, beachcombers and bird watchers in the spring and summer seasons.

Visitors will be happy to know that there are a variety of services and lodgings situated on Galiano. The list includes resorts, inns, cottages, bed and breakfasts and a Provincial Park campsite. Amenities include restaurants, grocery stores, a pub, a gas station and, as is common in these parts, a handful of galleries.

Destination: Mayne
A small, tranquil island, Mayne is ripe with rolling orchards, pastoral farmlands and warm rocky beaches. Though it's ideal for naturalists and anyone seeking a peaceful getaway, plenty of activity can be found on Mayne. There is a lively community here, and a history closely linked to the Cariboo Gold Rush of 1858. Miners Bay, the island's commercial centre, and nearby Active Pass bustle with marine traffic and the narrow, hilly roads always add some excitement to any journey.

Those seeking accommodation on Mayne will find many bed and breakfasts, as well as a privately operated campground.

Biking on Galiano Island 4

Though friendly to visitors, the population is primarily residential and as a result there are very few restaurants, lodgings or shops to be found. Truthfully, there is not even a village or town centre on either of the islands. North Pender's Driftwood Centre, however, is considered the closest thing as it houses a post office, pharmacy, laundromat, gas station, bank, grocery store and a couple of other services.

Popular for family vacations, romantic escapes, seminars and retreats, the Pender Islands are mostly known for their unspoiled countryside, hidden bays, old frame houses and incredible beaches. In fact, these islands are a beachcomber’s paradise with more than 20 ocean-access points leading to spanning, quiet beaches and picturesque coves.

Destination: Saturna
Saturna Island is the most remote and sparsely populated of the South Gulf Islands and as a result, it's also the least spoiled. The permanent population on Saturna has remained small, preserving the charm and rural character of the island while the island's bounty of wildlife and varied terrain support a variety of outdoor activities. After visiting, it's easy to see why nearly half of the newly created Gulf Islands National Park incorporates the undeveloped wilderness land on Saturna Island.

Visitors to Saturna should always plan ahead as accommodations are limited to only a few cottages, lodges and bed and breakfasts. There are however plenty of interesting galleries to check out, as well as a general store, pub, cafe and a vineyard.

	A Bird's Eye View of B.C.'s Gulf Islands 5

Local facilities include a community centre, a pub and restaurant, a post office, a small store, two marinas and a volunteer fire department.

Destination: Kuper
Kuper Island is owned by the Penelakut First Nations Tribe and as such falls under the governance of Vancouver Island's Cowichan Valley. The smallest of the Gulf Islands chain, this 860 ha (2,125 acres) island has a population of about 185 members of the Penelakut Band. As a native reservation, property is not for sale and no commercial services have been established.

Thetis Island and Kuper Island were originally joined by mud flats until a passage was dredged in 1905. Today, mariners and paddlers can sail through that shallow, narrow passage and into Telegraph Harbour, one of the most popular anchorages in the Southern Gulf Islands.

One of B.C. Ferry's Fleet 6

All of the Gulf Islands are accessible from Vancouver Island via one of B.C. Ferries' regular routes. Alternatively, boat tours, float planes and private charters are often available from many of the centres along Vancouver Island's east coast.

A number of Victoria-based tour companies offer all-inclusive day trips and overnight excursion tours that can be ideal for those who just can't decide where to start. Otherwise, visitors will want to plan well in advance, especially in the peak summer season. Firstly, choose which islands to include in the tour, then consult a B.C. Ferries schedule to manage connections. From there, plan when and where to seek overnight accommodations. Most communities offer hotels, resorts and a great selection of bed and breakfasts but they will fill up quickly in the peak season.

The alternative is to travel off peak season in the fall and winter. During these downtimes, ferry service to many islands is restricted to one or two sailings per day, prompting an early start and late returns. The trade-off is that there are far fewer visitors to share the roads, waterways, parks and hotels with.

From Swartz Bay
Sitting on the tip of the Saanich Peninsula in a little town called Sidney, the Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal is the primary starting point for excursions to five of the Southern Gulf Islands. From here, travellers can hop on board a direct-route to Fulford Harbour on Salt Spring, Otter Bay on North Pender, Sturdies Bay on Galiano, Village Bay on Mayne and Lyall Harbour on Saturna.

When there is time to spare, the Gulf Islands Day Trip from Swartz Bay is recommended. This meandering circle route makes several stops as it winds through the channels. The whole trip can take the better part of a day but stops and sailing times will vary depending on the date and time of sailing.

	B.C. Ferry Making a Wake 7

From the Islands
On Salt Spring Island, B.C. Ferries operates out of three terminals: Fulford Harbour ferries sail to Swartz Bay; Long Harbour serves ferries to and from Tsawwassen Terminal; and Vesuvius Bay ferries sail to Crofton. Otherwise, a network of ferry routes connect the islands of Pender, Mayne, Saturna, Salt Spring and Galiano. This sometimes confusing schedule is surprisingly effective and can get one from any island to any other island in a matter of an hour or less.

Now, let the island hopping begin, but remember, always plan to be punctual. The ferries will fill up very quickly on a busy day and even with a reservation, they will not wait for dawdlers.