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	A fallen totem pole in British Columbia, Canada

The land officially known as Canada since 1867 has a human history that can be traced back 10,000 years. The west coast of Canada, with a temperate environment and rich fishing waters, had a particularly dense concentration of Aboriginal societies. It is fascinating to see Aboriginal culture reflected in ancient structures that have survived for thousands of years; but even more significant are the First Nations communities that still exist today, many of which still practicing traditional art and cultural celebrations.

In order to experience the true spirit of Canada's west coast, take time to take in First Nation culture through the host of tours, museums and cultural centres devoted to preserving and promoting Aborginal history, customs and beliefs.

HISTORY

The same environment that attracted many Aboriginals to B.C.'s west coast attracted many Europeans in the 1700s. By the end of that century, the coast had developed into a frontier society of miners, fishers, loggers, hunters and farmers, and thus began an inauspicious association between Aboriginal peoples and their colonizers.

The relationship between the Canadian government and the First Nations has been tumultuous at best. While a 1763 Royal Proclamation decreed that “Indian peoples” retained the right to their land, the 1860s saw a swift change in attitude which denied the existence of Aboriginal rights. In 1876, the Indian Act was brought in as a means to assimilate Aboriginal Peoples, a decision that led to the removal of Aboriginal children from their families to be placed in residential schools, and potlaches (traditional Aboriginal ceremonial celebrations) were outlawed.

Gradually, many rights have been returned to Aboriginal peoples, but struggles for self-government and land rights still remain. Despite all this, First Nations culture is stronger than it has ever been since European settlement. The west coast reflects this cultural resurgence by many groups embracing tourism through many Aboriginal-operated museums, cultural villages and tours.

VANCOUVER ISLAND & THE DISCOVERY AND GULF ISLANDS

Vancouver Island and the Discovery and Gulf Islands have a rich and diverse Aboriginal history. While traditionally inhabited by dozens of Aboriginal tribes, the area can be broken up into three main linguistic groups: Coast Salish, Nuu-Chah-Nulth and Kwakwaka'wakw.

Coast Salish—Southeast Vancouver Island
The Coast Salish language group traditionally inhabit the south and southeast end of Vancouver Island, as well as parts of the Sunshine Coast and the Gulf Islands. Victoria is located at the southernmost end and is an ideal place to begin an exploration of the area's Aboriginal history. The Royal British Columbia Museum features an outstanding permanent exhibit of Aboriginal artifacts including totem poles and a longhouse, as well as providing comprehensive Aboriginal history. Adjacent to the museum is Thunderbird Park, where a number of totem poles are on display.

	An Aboriginal celebration Photo courtesy of Village Island Tours

An hour north of Victoria is the Cowichan Valley, a region rich in Aboriginal culture. Duncan is considered the city of totems, with over 80 on display that can best be discovered by a self-guided walking tour. The Quw'utsun' Cultural & Conference Centre offers a first-hand authentic Aboriginal experience through traditional art work, First Nations food and interpretive tours. One of the centre's most popular events is their Cowichan salmon barbecues that includes singing, dancing and drumming.

A little north of Duncan is Nanaimo, home to Petroglyph Park with stone carvings dating back 10,000 years. Local Aboriginals refer to the carvings as Kinomagewapkong, or rocks that teach. While the original meaning of the carvings may be lost, the message relating humankind to nature and to the divine is evident.

Nuu-Chah-Nulth—West Vancouver Island
The west coast of Vancouver Island, from Port Renfrew in the South to the Brooks Peninsula in the north, is considered the region of the Nuu-chah-Nulth language group, formerly known as the Nootka people. The region includes many inlets, which run as far inland as Port Alberni. Choo Kwa Ventures conducts guided cultural canoe tours from Port Alberni. Salmon barbecues are held daily (with prior booking) and feature the traditional method of roasting fish on stakes over an open fire.

There are several Aboriginal-owned and operated tour groups in the region around Tofino and Ucluelet. Tlaook Cultural Adventures, based out of Tofino, offers canoe excurions in a traditional yagana'wala, a 12-m (42-ft) cedar dug-out canoe. Other cultural outings feature guided visits to remote historic sites. Within the town of Tofino, the Eagle Aerie Gallery displays fine Aboriginal art and totem poles by esteemed artist Roy Vickers.

Near Gold River, farther north up the coast, is Yuquot, which means friendly cove. Here, the Mowachaht/Muchalaht First Nation operate cabin accommodations and a wilderness campground. Each summer, Yuquot celebrates Summerfest, featuring a salmon barbeque feast, special guest speakers, traditional songs and dances.

Kwakwaka'wakw—Northeast Vancouver Island
The northeast area of Vancouver Island extending into the Sunshine Coast is mainly comprised of the Kwakwaka'wakw language group.The oldest surviving community in this area is Alert Bay on Cormorant Island and many of its historical artifacts have been preserved. The U'mista Cultural Centre presents the area's Aboriginal history through an art gallery, potlatch artifacts, Kwakwaka'wakw historical exhibits and dance performances.

The Alert Bay Big House is a reproduction of a traditional Kwakwaka'wakw abode, which holds regular potlatches in which the T'sasala Cultural Group performs unchanged, historical sacred dances and songs during the summer season. The world's tallest totem pole can also be found here, towering over the centre at 53 m (173 ft).

The Namgis Burial Grounds features original, undisturbed totem poles on this sacred ground which is actually closed to the public; however, the site can be viewed from the roadside.

Also located in the northeast of Vancouver Island, Port Hardy is home to the Indian Summer Games. A celebration of Aboriginal culture in the region, this event is held in September each year.

A whale swims into the sunset near Oak Bay, Victoria. Photo courtesy of Wendy Ogden

On the east side of Vancouver Island toward the centre of the coast, Campbell River is a tourist hub for fishing, whale and grizzly bear watching, and boat tours. There are many tour operators in the region, some some staffed by guides who are either Aboriginal or locally-born and knowledgeable about Aboriginal history. Aboriginal Journeys is First Nation-owned and operated and offers tours in all of the above, as well as hosting traditional salmon barbecues.

Gildas Box of Treasures Theatre takes visitors on a cultural journey into Aboriginal songs, dances and legends. Representing the Laichwiltach people of the Kwakwaka'wakw language group, performances demonstrate parts of a traditional potlatch ceremony.

Just under an hour's drive from Campbell River, Sayward is located on the site of a small Aboriginal village. The area reserve was unoccupied by 1917, but many descendants live in surrounding communities today. Hkusam Mountain overlooks the town. The mysterious misty ring that surrounds its peak is known as Hiatsee Saklekum, or where the breath of the sea lion gathers at the blow-hole. Village Island Tours explores the region led by Aboriginal tour guides, operating with pride in teaching visitors about the wonders of the earth from a First Nations' perspective.

Quadra Island, just across from Campbell River, has a couple of major Aboriginal attractions. The Kwagiulth Museum and Cultural Centre features a host of ceremonial potlatch regalia, from rattles to masks, that were confiscated by the government in accordance with the Indian Act of 1876.

SUNSHINE COAST
Located between Porty Hardy on the tip of Vancouver Island and Prince Rupert on the west coast of mainland B.C. is Klemtu, a small village on Swindle Island, home to the Great Bear Rainforest, and the elusive spirit bear. Klemtu means blocked passage, and was once a major fishing and trading centre. Today, the town is home to 400 people from two distinct tribal organizations, the Kitasoo (Tsimshian) and the Xaixais.

Visitors are welcome to explore the island's pristine environment comprised of beaches, mountain peaks, fjords and rainforests and experience the culture of the Kitasoo/Xaixais First Nation that has survived here for thousands of years. Tours, led by Aboriginal guides, are available by sea kayak and motorboats to witness the unique landscape here as well as its wildlife, including the majestic grizzly and spirit (kermode) bear. The spirit bear is an animal that has mystified humankind for centuries with its all-white coat. It is thought to be a variation of the black bear, its colour due to a single recessive gene.

There are enough services in Klemtu to provide visitors with a comfortable stay, including accommodation, camping, general stores, and boat moorage with fuel. There is a tourism office in Klemtu to help visitors plan their visit and book accommodation and tours.

Slightly north of Klemtu on mainland B.C., Prince Rupert offers further insight into the area's Aboriginal past at the Museum of Northern British Columbia.The building, designed in the same fashion as a longhouse, exhibits the history of the local Tsimshian culture. Tours run in the summer to Laxspa'aws Pike Island, located nearby. Here visitors can explore five archaeological sites and three Tsimshian village sites.

QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS

	Ancient totem poles on the Queen Charlotte Islands

To visit the Queen Charlotte Islands is to immerse oneself in Aboriginal culture. Having survived for over 10,000 years, Haida culture is still strong in this part of the world. Referred to as Haida Gwaii by the Haida, the area is known as the place where time began. Visitors may be convinced of this claim upon discovering this area's many unique characteristics. Consisting of 167 islands, Haida Gwaii is located off of northern British Columbia just south of Alaska and is only accessible by plane or boat. Many plant and animal species are native to the area, making it likely that the Ice Age skipped this piece of paradise.

A diverse array of life is preserved in the Queen Charlottes' old-growth rain forests and underwater amidst kelp forests. Shoreline cliffs protect some of the world's largest seabird colonies. Sea lion rookeries also inhabit the shorelines here, overlooking diverse marine life that includes killer and grey whales.

Visiting Gwaii Haanas
The southern half of the group of islands (mainly South Moresby Island, or Gwaii Haanas) is a protected National Park reserve and Haida Heritage site, thus visitation is limited to a certain number of visitors daily. Advanced reservations are available from the parks office in Queen Charlotte City. Before entering the Gwaii Haanas, visitors are required to take a 90-minute information session that covers steps for reduced environmental impact when visiting the area. While visitors can tour the area independently, guided excursions are available, but it should be confirmed that these operators have a Gwaii Haanas business license. Tour options include float plane charters, bus tours, kayaking and guided walking excursions. Fishing is prime here so many fishing charters are also available. Tours are available from several centres on the islands, mainly Queen Charlotte City and Skidegate.

The Haida Gwaii Experience
Like many Aboriginal groups, the Haida developed a close spiritual relationship with the land and developed a culture within it that reveres all life. At the same time, their power was feared by surrounding tribes, and allowed them to endure for thousands of years. Ancient villages, caves with petroglyphs, totem poles and museums provide insight into this extraordinary culture. Traditional Haida art forms are still created by many Haida today.

Ninstints
As the Gwaii Haanas is the place where time began, Ninstints is a reflection of time standing still. Attempts have been made to ensure this remains the case for all of Anthony Island, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This is home to the village of Ninstints (Nans Dins), an ancient Aboriginal settlement. Visitors here will observe the haunting remains of carved mortuary and memorial poles as well as housing ruins. Anthony Island is no longer used for habitation and may only be visited by tours.

Other village and longhouse (tradition Haida housing) ruins are found throughout the islands, and the best way to find them is by a licensed tour operator.

Haida Gwaii Museum
Located in Skidegate, the Haida Gwaii museum is a microcosm of the Queen Charlotte Islands, representing the natural and cultural history of the area through an array of artifacts, from fossils to art. In an effort to promote local artists, the museum shop sells a collection of Haida art, jewellery and pottery.

Bill Reid Totem Pole and Canoe
Born of a Haida mother and European father, Bill Reid was raised in Hyder (on the Alaska border) and Victoria, B.C. with little knowledge of his Haida culture. A visit to Skidegate in 1943 at the age of 23 to meet his grandfather, Charles Gladstone—one of the only people producing Haida art at the time—introduced Reid to Haida culture, and it left an indelible mark on his life. Studying art and tradition thereafter led Reid to create esteemed artwork; today, his works are displayed around the world. Perhaps his most prominent piece is the totem pole that forms the centre pole of a Haida-style building for the Skidegate Band Council's administrative building.

Lootaas, a 7.5-m (24.6-ft) canoe carved by Reid is also on display in Skidegate. Commissioned for the 1986 World Exposition in Vancouver, the canoe was later paddled to Skidegate, centrally located on the Queen Charlotte Islands, following a 967-km (600-mi) route that traced an ancient Haida trading route.