Scattered in the Pacific
Ocean just off of mainland B.C.
are a multitude of islands with gem-like brilliance. Some have emerald rainforests,
others polished communities, and all are surrounded by crystal waters. Each
precious rock, from large to small, has its own story and its own rhythm, appealing
to a variety of residents and visitors.
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The Sun Sets Over Frank Island
Photo Courtesy Tofino Whale Centre
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Vancouver
Island is not only the largest of these islands, but of the entire west
coast of North America, being almost twice the size of Hawaii.
Wedged in between Vancouver Island and mainland British Columbia are the Gulf
Islands, comprised of thousands of islands and islets, but with only
about 12 being regularly frequented. These islands are generally divided into
South and North Gulf Islands, with the Discovery
Islands being a cluster within the north grouping.
Rarely is a region so diverse
that it can boast never-ending beaches, eclectic communities, ice-capped mountains,
abundant wildlife and a mild climate. But the Pacific West Coast has all of
these things and more. So whether travelling for a romantic getaway, a family
retreat or a wilderness adventure, this region is sure to provide a getaway
location that will quickly become a treasured island of dreams.
HISTORY
The names of the waters
and land formations in the area indicate just how diverse the origins of each
island is, since there is quite the mix of First Nations and European titles.
Evidence of human occupation
dates back some 2000 years. Several First Nations groups resided in the area,
many living as nomads, arriving and departing according to the season. Eventually
three main groups formed: the Nootka, Kwakwaka'wakw and the Coast Salish. These
people wove an intricate social fabric of rituals, spiritualism and art, and
left such legacies as totem poles, longhouses and fine crafts behind.
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Autumn
Arch
Photo Courtesy Will Thomas |
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The first recorded European
visitor was Captain James Cook, who came upon Nootka
Sound by what is now Estevan Point on the central west side of Vancouver
Island. Spanish explorers were close behind. Over the next five decades both
the British and the Spanish fervently scouted the area, vying for trading and
ownership rights. The countries were at the brink of war when the Nootka Convention
was signed in 1790, allowing both Spain and Britain to occupy the area. The
treaty enabled two early explorers, Captain George Vancouver and Juan Francisco
de la Bodegay Quadra to combine their efforts in surveying the area in 1792.
The Spanish eventually ceded
to the British, who hastily increased British settlement. The Hudson's Bay Company
moved into Vancouver Island in 1843 and dubbed the area Fort Victoria.
When the Fraser Gold Rush
fever hit in the mid-1800s, the area hosted fortune seekers from such destinations
as U.S.A. and China as they ventured north. One island in particular, Mayne
Island, became a bustling rest stop between Vancouver Island and the
mainland. Miners Bay on Mayne became one of the first Southern Gulf Island settlements
due to the heavy traffic. Although initially driven to find riches, many of
the gold seekers felt the natural wealth of the island was satisfying enough
and lingered on.
It was around this time
that the Hudson's Bay Company left Fort Victoria, leaving behind the city of
Victoria. Vancouver
Island and mainland BC formed the colony of British Columbia in 1866, which
later became the 6th province of Canada in 1871.
The industries of fishing
and logging flourished, and are still active today. Tourism, largely due to
the expansion of ferry service, continues to rapidly increase, offering something
for most tastes and budgets. As for the residents of these islands, an assortment
of cultures, ages and personalities abound, with one commonality — most
prefer the things that are simple, natural and fresh over complex, processed
and re-circulated.
CLIMATE
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Sunset Over Ucluelet
Photo Courtesy West Coast Fish Expeditions
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Mild and moist basically
sums up the weather conditions in this territory. Generally warm in each season
by Canadian standards, the summers reach highs in the mid 20s ºC (70 to 80ºF),
with winters just below 0ºC (32ºF). The catch is the precipitation — the
Pacific West Coast rainfall is among the heaviest in the world. The Gulf Islands
tend to be drier than their Vancouver Island neighbour, as the land formations
act as a shield. In general, dress in preparation for wetness and almost constant
ocean breezes. For those who must have snow for holidays, try the Comox Valley
area and north of Campbell River on Vancouver Island, where alpine and nordic
ski sites welcome bountiful powder snow during mid-December to late April.
TRANSPORTATION
Any illusions of being Robinson
Crusoe on these West Coast islands are futile, since there is little chance
of being marooned. Every community can be accessed by land, air or water, often
by at least two of these. Ferry
service from Mainland BC and Washington
State to Vancouver Island is frequent, and connections to most of the
islands are available. Air
services range from major airlines to chartered flights, and include
helicopter and floatplane service as well. Vancouver Island is extremely drivable
— it takes approximately six hours to travel from the deep south of Victoria
to the northernmost community of Port
Hardy. Most destinations are within a day's drive. Rental
cars and taxis
can be arranged on Vancouver Island, but not as easily on the other islands.
To watch the sights instead
of the signs, travel by motorcoach.
One can go by bus
over the ferry and use the regional service on Vancouver Island. Try expending
calories instead of fuel by biking
or paddling.
For more information on transportation, please read Transportation
on Vancouver Island.
VANCOUVER ISLAND
South Island
The most regal destination on Vancouver Island is the city of Victoria. This
provincial capital has a distinct 1800's Victorian air, largely due to its well-preserved
heritage buildings and nurtured gardens and parks. The
Inner Harbour is photogenic, as many vintage sailing vessels are berthed
there. As well, thousands snap shots of the ivy-covered Fairmont
Empress Hotel, which is a popular spot for high tea. The
Royal British Columbia Museum has natural and modern history sections,
as well as a First Nations area complete with totems and masks.
Just outside of Victoria
is the Butchart
Gardens. Once a limestone quarry, the site now flourishes with a million
plants. In the summer, regular firework exhibitions and music performances are
scheduled. Catching the spill over of tourism from Victoria is Sooke
to the east. Many seek Sooke's accommodations
and amenities as the area is slightly quieter than Victoria, and yet still in
a mesmerizing setting. Sooke
Potholes Provincial Park is an exceptional point to watch salmon spawning,
hike year round, or take a refreshing dip in one of three potholes formed by
erosion.
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Young Grandfather Trees
Photo Courtesy Will Thomas
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Just northeast is Duncan,
where totem poles, numbering over 40 within the town and along the highway,
pay homage to the area's Cowichan First Nations people. Their culture, entwined
with nature and earth, can be further understood at the absorbing Quw'utsaun
Cultural and Conference Centre.
A bit further is Chemainus,
where one can tour Canada's
largest outdoor art gallery. The over 30 Chemainus Murals depict the
town's colourful history.
Central Island
Nanaimo is the second largest city on Vancouver Island, and will be eternally
associated with the delectable chocolate-custard treat, the Nanaimo
Bar. The city is a transportation hub, both for vehicles and ferries.
Travel directly west to
Parksville and
Qualicum Beach,
two destinations that enjoy leagues of tourists in the summer on account of
the wondrous shoreline. The grains of sand are vital to one of Parksville's
largest events — the
Parksville Beach Festival — where a master class sandcastle competition
takes place every August. Beachcombers are delighted at Qualicum Beach, as are
spelunkers at nearby Horne
Lake Caves Provincial Park, which trumpets one of the finest cave systems
in B.C.
Pacific Rim
Another summer hotspot is
the Pacific Rim region of Vancouver Island, largely due to the Pacific
Rim National Park. It is estimated that one million people frequent
the park in summer alone. Pacific Rim National Park's most popular beach is
Long
Beach, where bountiful species of birds and surfers flaunt their feathers.
The park has several other beaches, plus an old-growth rainforest and the Nuu-chah-nulth
archaeological sites.
On either end of the park
are the small municipalities of Tofino
and Ucluelet, both rapidly
developing a tourism reputation with their plentiful beachfront accommodations
and tour/activity operators. A unique way to combine adventure and culture is
to take a First Nations tour of scenic Clayoquot
Sound.
Winter brings a different
crowd to the Pacific Rim — those intent on watching cloud calamity from
the cliffs. Storm watchers will quickly understand why the coastline is known
as the Graveyard of the Pacific when hit with winds at hurricane strength —
it is said there is a wrecked ship for every mile of coastline.
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Taking a Break in Strathcona Provincial
Park
Photo Courtesy Spirit of the West Adventures
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Another tourism peak of
the Pacific Rim is the West
Coast Trail. Thousands participate in extreme hiking/camping adventures
here each year. The trail runs from Port
Renfrew to Bamfield,
and is a rigorous 73 km (45 mi) that should only be taken on by experienced
hikers. Excursions on the trail must be booked months in advance, since ecological
concerns have prompted rules that stipulate that only a certain amount of people
can be on the trail at one time.
Northern Island
Northern Vancouver Island is the Canadian lumberjack shirt of the region —
rugged and bright. The pristine terrain consists of deep forests and mountains
with glaciers clinging to the sides. One of Vancouver Island's most northern
communities is Port Hardy, a common stop for travellers carrying on to the Inside
Passage towards Alaska,
as well as the Discovery Coast Passage. Bold explorers often seek out the unpredictable
wilderness of Cape
Scott Park, where, without warning, the weather can become volatile.
Just south of Port Hardy
are Telegraph Cove
and Port McNeil,
both considered to be excellent vantage points for whale watching. Along the
Johnstone Strait, sightings of Orcas (killer whales), seals and sea lions are
frequent. Those who wish to venture out among these creatures are encouraged
to take a kayaking tour.
Roughly three hours southeast
is Campbell River,
the self-proclaimed salmon capital of the world. Learn a lesson in perseverance
by watching these fish thrash upstream to spawn.
GULF ISLANDS
The Gulf Islands, an enormous collection of islands and islets set in the Strait
of Georgia, are the haunt of urban escapees and artists. They are generally
divided into two categories, north and south. Each cluster has several prominent
islands, most with a distinct population that may vary from bohemian to traditional.
Life on these islands is meant to be enjoyed, not endured. Many feel it is refreshing
to be in a friendly, familiar atmosphere, one where everyone either knows your
name already or learns it quickly.
Southern Islands
Salt Spring Island
is the most populated and traveller friendly of the Gulf Islands. The hilly
terrain and lush forests are a drawing card for a population where one cannot
throw a stone without hitting an artisan or wellness guru.
The
Pender Islands, two islands joined by a wooden bridge, are also adapted
to tourism. Climb 244 m (800 ft) to the peak of Mount Normand for an absolutely
stunning view of the San Juan Islands. Or forget the scenery and drop a small
fortune at the vibrant farmer's
market.
Mayne
Island, also known as Apple Island due to the fruit orchards planted
by early settlers, entices cyclists with its flat roads and sparse traffic.
Lighthouse enthusiasts may want to visit the Active
Pass Lighthouse, where the beams have been assisting sailors manoeuvre
since 1885.
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A seal near Mitlenatch Island
Photo Courtesy Spirit of the West Adventures
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Northern Islands
Hornby Island
is considered a worthwhile indulgence when in the Gulf Islands. Rivalling Hawaii's
beaches is Hornby's
Tribune Bay shoreline, where the white sands and temperate waters soothe
the spirits of the most adamant city dweller.
Discovery Islands
Campbell River
and mainland B.C. flank the Discovery Islands, which are notorious for jaw-dropping
scenery and frequent wildlife sightings. Everyday woes are set adrift when sea
kayaking, snorkeling
or spying
on such playful sea creatures as seals and porpoises in the well-protected
waters. The more popular islands are Quadra
and Cortes. Quadra
Island is a distinguished sport-fishing destination and host to Rebecca
Spit Provincial Park with its trove of recreational pursuits. Cortes
is at the base of Desolation
Sound, and has a varied topography of gorges, beaches and lakes. The
serene setting of the island is perfect for the renowned wellness retreat Hollyhock.
