| |
 |
| |
A
Heron Takes Flight in the Georgia Strait 1 |
Between Vancouver
Island and the Lower Mainland of British
Columbia, B.C.
Ferries' fleet of vessels have become a common part of the local
scenery. Each day from early morning till late evening, these massive vehicles
effortlessly navigate through the often tight waterways that separate the Southern
Gulf Islands. Their hulls full of cars, trucks and hundreds of
passengers, these ships and their crew work to bring the insular communities
that dot the islands a measure of communion with the rest of the country.
On board one of those massive vessels, standing out on the ship's deck, watching
those tranquil islands drift on by, one can't help but feel a sense of adventure
well up inside. Maybe it's the fresh ocean air and the feeling of the Pacific
waves below. Maybe it's how appealing the Gulf Islands become on a warm sunny
day. Maybe it's the unknown beckoning to some deep-seeded instinct to explore.
Whatever the cause may be, there is a simple solution, just go island hopping.
An activity enjoyed most in the warm months from May to September, island hopping
is as simple as it sounds; board one boat after the next as they travel from
island to island. The benefits to this seemingly humble endeavor are numerous.
For starters, it affords an opportunity to fully experience the natural beauty,
diverse culture and peaceful atmosphere found on each of these unique islands.
Also, travel is inexpensive and relatively easy. But perhaps most importantly,
island hopping is done at one's own pace. It awards those exploring the islands
with the freedom to spend as much time as they like in any one place.
THE ISLANDS
 |
| The
B.C. Flag Flies on the Ferries 2 |
|
Seven major islands pierce the Strait
of Georgia in the south. Each is surrounded by numerous lesser
islands and each mutually enjoys a laid-back lifestyle, slower pace of life
and a pleasant West Coast Canadian climate. However, due to their independent
nature, the island communities found here can differ considerably. One might
rely heavily on tourism, while the other may want nothing to do with it. Some
have a very developed infrastructure, others still rely on dirt roads. Yet with
all of their differences, this group of seven are all attractive in their own
rights and each deserves at least a day or two of exploring.
Destination: Salt Spring
Salt Spring Island
is the most populated and by far the largest of the Southern Gulf Islands. Home
to musicians, farmers, entrepreneurs and a large arts community, the relaxed
atmosphere and the natural lifestyle that these islanders enjoy attracts more
visitors each year than any of the other six.
Billing itself as the Organic Gardening Capital of Canada,
Salt Spring has made farming its primary resource. Much of the island is covered
with picturesque pastures and pristine farmland and many shops
and vendors fleck the streets, dispensing the bounty of these businesses. The
remaining pockets are filled by artist's galleries,
studios and craft
shops as they showcase the community's creative spirit.
The rugged southern end of the island is dominated by Mount
Tuam and Mount
Bruce and is home to Ruckle
Provincial Park, the biggest provincial campground
in the Gulf Islands.
Compared to many of the Gulf Islands, Salt Spring features an
impressive selection of shops, spas,
restaurants
and tourist accommodations.
| |
 |
| |
Camping
on Salt Spring Island 3 |
New in 2008, a modest public
transit system now makes island hopping that much easier as it connects
Vesuvius
in the northwest, Fulford
Harbour in the northeast and Long
Harbour in the south. Otherwise, ferry travelling foot passengers
can rent
a car, scooter or bicycle and tour the island's many scenic byways.
Destination: Galiano
Dubbed the Gem of the Gulf Islands, Galiano
is the second largest island in the chain. Though it is the first stop for the
Tsawwassen
ferry and a popular tourist destination, Galiano has managed to retain its undeveloped,
secluded character while enjoying a reputation as the most welcoming to visitors.
On this long, narrow island there are plenty of options for
the outdoor enthusiast. It has the most parkland
of all the Southern Gulf Islands, is home to over 130 species of birds and harbours
a number of rare and protected plants. As a result, Galiano is frequented by
naturalists, beachcombers and bird watchers in the spring and summer seasons.
Visitors will be happy to know that there are a variety of services
and lodgings
situated on Galiano. The list includes resorts,
inns,
cottages, bed
and breakfasts and a Provincial Park campsite.
Amenities include restaurants, grocery stores, a pub, a gas station and, as
is common in these parts, a handful of galleries.
Destination: Mayne
A small, tranquil island, Mayne
is ripe with rolling orchards, pastoral farmlands and warm rocky beaches. Though
it's ideal for naturalists and anyone seeking a peaceful getaway, plenty of
activity can be found on Mayne. There is a lively community here, and a history
closely linked to the Cariboo Gold Rush of 1858. Miners
Bay, the island's commercial centre, and nearby Active
Pass bustle with marine traffic and the narrow, hilly roads always
add some excitement to any journey.
Those seeking accommodation on Mayne will find many bed
and breakfasts, as well as a privately operated campground.
 |
| Biking
on Galiano Island 4 |
|
Destination: Pender
The populous Pender
Islands are separated north and south by a canal and united by
a bridge. Thusly, while most people refer to Pender Island in the singular,
there are in fact two islands and aside from a large subdivision on North Pender,
these islands remain green and rural.
Though friendly to visitors, the population is primarily residential
and as a result there are very few restaurants,
lodgings
or shops
to be found. Truthfully, there is not even a village or town centre on either
of the islands. North Pender's Driftwood
Centre, however, is considered the closest thing as it houses a
post office, pharmacy, laundromat, gas station, bank, grocery store and a couple
of other services.
Popular for family vacations, romantic escapes, seminars and
retreats, the Pender Islands are mostly known for their unspoiled countryside,
hidden bays, old frame houses and incredible beaches. In fact, these islands
are a beachcomber’s paradise with more than 20 ocean-access points leading
to spanning, quiet beaches and picturesque coves.
Destination: Saturna
Saturna Island
is the most remote and sparsely populated of the South Gulf Islands and as a
result, it's also the least spoiled. The permanent population on Saturna has
remained small, preserving the charm and rural character of the island while
the island's bounty of wildlife and varied terrain support a variety of outdoor
activities.
After visiting, it's easy to see why nearly half of the newly created Gulf
Islands National Park incorporates the undeveloped wilderness land
on Saturna Island.
Visitors to Saturna should always plan ahead as accommodations
are limited to only a few cottages,
lodges
and bed
and breakfasts. There are however plenty of interesting galleries
to check out, as well as a general
store, pub,
cafe
and a vineyard.
| |
 |
| |
A
Bird's Eye View of B.C.'s Gulf Islands 5 |
Destination: Thetis
Up in the north end of the chain, the relaxed, rural and peaceful Thetis
Island sits off the coast of Vancouver Island. Especially popular
in the summer months, this friendly little island is home to less than 400 permanent
residents, only slightly higher than the neighbouring Kuper Island. Even with
such a small population, Thetis Island has become almost entirely privately
owned, with the exception of 14 km (9 mi) of public roads and 19 km (12 mi)
of shoreline.
Local facilities include a community
centre, a pub
and restaurant, a post
office, a small
store, two
marinas and a volunteer fire department.
Destination: Kuper
Kuper Island
is owned by the Penelakut First Nations Tribe and as such falls under the governance
of Vancouver Island's Cowichan Valley. The smallest of the Gulf Islands chain,
this 860 ha (2,125 acres) island has a population of about 185 members of the
Penelakut Band. As a native reservation, property is not for sale and no commercial
services have been established.
Thetis Island and Kuper Island were originally joined by mud
flats until a passage was dredged in 1905. Today, mariners and paddlers can
sail through that shallow, narrow passage and into Telegraph
Harbour, one of the most popular anchorages in the Southern Gulf
Islands.
 |
| One
of B.C. Ferry's Fleet 6 |
|
SET COURSE
All of the Gulf Islands are accessible from Vancouver Island
via one of B.C. Ferries' regular routes. Alternatively, boat
tours, float
planes and private charters are often available from many of the
centres along Vancouver Island's east coast.
A number of Victoria-based
tour
companies offer all-inclusive day trips and overnight excursion
tours that can be ideal for those who just can't decide where to start. Otherwise,
visitors will want to plan well in advance, especially in the peak summer season.
Firstly, choose which islands to include in the tour, then consult a B.C. Ferries
schedule to manage connections. From there, plan when and where to seek overnight
accommodations. Most communities offer hotels, resorts and a great selection
of bed and breakfasts but they will fill up quickly in the peak season.
The alternative is to travel off peak season in the fall and
winter. During these downtimes, ferry service to many islands is restricted
to one or two sailings per day, prompting an early start and late returns. The
trade-off is that there are far fewer visitors to share the roads, waterways,
parks and hotels with.
From Swartz Bay
Sitting on the tip of the Saanich Peninsula in a little town called Sidney,
the Swartz
Bay Ferry Terminal is the primary starting point for excursions
to five of the Southern Gulf Islands. From here, travellers can hop on board
a direct-route to Fulford
Harbour on Salt Spring, Otter
Bay on North Pender, Sturdies
Bay on Galiano, Village
Bay on Mayne and Lyall
Harbour on Saturna.
When there is time to spare, the Gulf Islands Day Trip from Swartz Bay is recommended.
This meandering circle route makes several stops as it winds through the channels.
The whole trip can take the better part of a day but stops and sailing times
will vary depending on the date and time of sailing.
| |
 |
| |
B.C. Ferry Making a Wake 7 |
From Crofton and Chemainus
The friendly community of Crofton in the Cowichan region is another departure
point for hops between Vancouver Island and Salt Spring Island. Routes from the
seaside town of Chemainus
connect with Thetis Island and Kuper Island.
From the Islands
On Salt Spring Island, B.C. Ferries operates out of three terminals: Fulford
Harbour ferries sail to Swartz Bay; Long Harbour serves ferries to and from
Tsawwassen
Terminal; and Vesuvius Bay ferries sail to Crofton. Otherwise,
a network of ferry routes connect the islands of Pender, Mayne, Saturna, Salt
Spring and Galiano. This sometimes confusing schedule is surprisingly effective
and can get one from any island to any other island in a matter of an hour or
less.
Now, let the island hopping begin, but remember, always plan to be punctual.
The ferries will fill up very quickly on a busy day and even with a reservation,
they will not wait for dawdlers.
